Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Jacques on Doneness

Like many foodies, I adore Jacques Pepin, who is arguably the greatest chef alive. His mastery of French cooking techniques is legendary, and any one item on his resume' would be the crowning achievement in anyone else's career. What makes him so universally respected and admired isn't his command of the French culinary world, however. It's that he's unfailingly modest, approachable, and down to earth. Recently I was reading Julia & Jacques Cooking at Home (yes, I read cookbooks like novels - doesn't everyone?) and came across a side bar discussing the degree to which a piece of meat should be cooked. Since many of us Low Carb people go through a lot of meat, I thought I'd share Jacques' opinion on it with you:

I like many cuts of meat rare, but there is an obsession about "not overcooking" these days that is ridiculous. I go to restaurants and get rare sausage, rare fish, rare chicken, and rare - really raw- vegetables. I want to tell them, "Please don't undercook the food!" This fashion has made people feel that if they serve or even like something that is well cooked it somehow reflects on their IQ. I was at a dinner where we had to specify how we wanted rack of lamb prepared. After I ordered mine medium-rare, the woman who was sitting next to me apologized profusely for ordering her rack of lamb well done. "I'm sorry, " she said to me, "but would you mind terribly if I take my lamb well done? I don't want to offend you." Why would I be offended? If you prefer something well cooked, by all means follow your taste. You are not on a lower social scale if you want your steak medium or well done. You are the one who is going to eat it, so have it exactly the way you like.***

Wow. Can you imagine how much more pleasant meals would be if the guests and chefs alike would all be so understanding of individual tastes? Heck, I'd be happy if the Starbucks guy didn't roll his eyes when I can't rattle off my order like I'm channeling Juan Valdez. The next time you're out, remember Jacques' words and order what you like, how you like it. Not just the meat course, but the sides, or the details you'd like adjusted. Get that dressing on the side! Substitute another vegetable course for the baked potato! After all, YOU are the one who is going to eat it, so have it exactly the way you like.

***Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home, Child, Julie and Jacques Pepin, 1999, pp. 370.

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